Friday October 8, 1999

Athens

In Brussles we had to take a bus to the plane. It was a dreary day with a light misty rain. The flight took us over the Alps and gave us some magnificent views.

Athens was not what we expected. The airport was small and the surrounding countryside looked a lot like Las Vegas, that is dry and few trees on the surrounding hills.

They were right there to meet us. We whisked through customs and boarded the bus waiting for us. The hotel, the Divanis Appolon Palace was very typical of many buildings here. Tall and every room has a balcony. We look out from our 7th floor room on the beautiful Aegean Sea. It is rather spectacular.

The room itself is very nice. The hotel has been newly renovated. It did take some getting use to things in the bathroom. One switch we never did figure out.

We showered and changed into some fresh clothes. That certainly felt good.

Then we walked on the beech. I used Drango to put the introduction on our video, and then we made some friends on the beech.

We came back to the hotel by going through the surrounding neighborhood. There are some really nice places. Everywhere there are balconies. That is one of the characteristics here; thin building with balconies on all sides. Even single homes are variants on this.

We waited for the introductory meeting sitting overlooking the pool and Aegean Sea. The guide Yannis came first and met Drango. Then we had the meeting.

An excellent dinner followed.

After dinner we walked a little on the beach and then came back to the room to turn in.

Saturday October 9, 1999

Athens: Acropolis, Parthanon, Poisoiden Temple

Cloudy when we got up but a pleasant temperature. We dressed and went down for breakfast.

After breakfast we boarded the buses. We had prayer and some singing and then drove along the beach. The water is the Sironac Gulf a part of the Aegean Sea. It is very nice. The beach is not wide and has fine brown sand.

Lots of outside places to eat and drink. ^The Greeks love to go out in the evening, late. Often the entertainment doesn't start until midnight or later. They go out and eat late!

We drove through the canter of Athens. It is crowded, This is a problem they are working on. There are very narrow streets and hilly. We drove to Mars Hill to the Acropolis.

We had devotions at the foot of Mars Hill. Paul preached here at the foot of Mars Hill, perhaps right where we had out devotions.

Athens was the birthplace of democracy. People elected 50 representatives and they got their position by lot. Once you served you could not come back. This is no longer done but there are some things that would be better way and would get rid of some of the career politicians that do so much harm to our country.

We saw a theater on the way up. It is ancient and has been restored and now used for modern performances.

The walk up was spectacular but many, many, big steps. We entered through the main gate and sitting on the top was the Parthenon. Buildings were there for over 5,000 years however the buildings now were built in the 5th century BC. There are some older ruins. I we saw dated to the 13th century.

The scene at the top is beautiful. We came down and boarded the bus for a tour of Athens. It was very crowded and congested. We passed a number of landmarks including the Presidential Palace and the first Olympic Stadium built in 1897. The ancient Olympics started in 7th century BC and were abolished in the 4th century BC. It was resumed in 1897 here in Athens.

The main streets were congested and the side streets very narrow with balconies and plants over hanging the street below. We drove back to the hotel for lunch and a break.

Tom, Linda, and I ate in the hotel. Joe joined us. After lunch we got back on the bus and drove the along the coast. It was an interesting drive, at times very pretty.

We went up to the Poseidon Temple. It is high overlooking the Aegean Sea. The temple was built in the 5th BC. There was a fierce wind blowing. I had Drango out and we got some video. We also met a lot of people. There was a German group that especially liked him. The one man told me the origin of Schiemer was "the man who makes umbrellas". I kind of hoping it was something heroic.

We came back to the hotel and relaxed until suppertime.

Supper was excellent but way too much. After we ate Tom led a short session on Paul and Thessilika. Then Tom, Linda & I, and some others took a cab to Glyfada where there were many things going on; lots of window-shopping. food and drink places, and wall to wall people. Traffic was horrendous. We walked around a while just enjoying the sights, sounds, and smells. We stopped to watch sidewalk vendors doing pieces of their art.

We got something to drink at one place. Most all the places were on the sidewalk. We sipped, talked, and enjoyed the feeling. Then we caught cabs and headed back to the hotel and sleep.

The Aeropagus (Mars Hill, Roman name based on the god of war) where Paul preached the famous sermon to the Athenians about the "unknown god." The Aeropagus is a rocky hill located near the access to the Acropolis of Athens. On this site we held our initial devotions of the trip.

Acropolis - means a city on the highest point. In ancient times the Athenian acropolis was accessed through the propylea — a monumental gateway. We walked through the ruins of the propylea in order to reach the top of the acropolis where the great temples are found. Many Greek cities had an acropolis, especially for purposes of defense.

Parthenon —was built to house a great statue of Athena. goddess of knowledge. ‘Athens’ means virgin’s place’ or clear virgin’s wisdom’. Athena was born from the head of Zeus, symbolizing knowledge, wisdom.

The Parthenon was one of the best constructed buildings in all of history. The architects and builders corrected for optical illusions with slight curvatures in order to gain the appearance of straight lines. The exquisite marble for the Parthenon came from Pentelicus several miles away. Over the years it has taken on a golden glow as a result of its iron content. Originally (i.e. in the 4 century BC) the building and statues were painted.

• The friezes of the Parthenon told the stories of the gods and goddesses who according to mythology founded the city:
• North side — citizens with sacrifices on their way to a festival
• West side — men and their horses, the Great Festival
• South side — war, chariots, travelers
• East side — offerings for Athena Summary of the timeline for the Parthenon:
• Built -- 447-438 BC
• Served as a Christian church — approx. 1000 AD - 1400 AD
• Served as a Moslem mosque — 1400 - 1600’s
• Destroyed by the Venetians — 1687

Erectheum — small temple that includes the Porch of the Maidens (Caryatids), figures of women serving as columns. The figures we see today are replacements. We saw some of the originals in the small museum located on the acropolis. One of the originals is also located at the British Museum in London along with the "Elgin marbles," figures from the Parthenon friezes taken to London in the early 19 century by Lord Elgin.

Museum of the Acropolis --Here we saw statuary from the Parthenon and other temples located on the acropolis.

Additional sights that were pointed out in Athens include:

• Agora — the ancient market place. The word derives from I speak." Originally it was a place for public speaking and evolved into a market place. Every town had its Agora.
• National Gardens — formerly the royal gardens
• Constitution Square — parliament’s palace, tomb of the unknown soldier. Guards (Efzoni) wear shirts and have pompoms on the shoes. It is a very formal and ritualized changing of the guard.
• Stadium — site of the revival of the Olympic Games in Athens in 1896.
• Statue of Lord Byron
• Statue of Melina Mercouri

In the afternoon we took the optional trip to Sounion in order to see both the fantastic view from and the remains of the Temple of Poseidon about 30 miles from Athens on a point that rises prominently above the Aegean Sea.

Sunday October 10, 1999

Thessoniki: Berea

We checked out and put our bags out for the bus. Then we went to breakfast. It was another good breakfast. Then it was off to the bus and Thessoloniki. Ruth led the morning devotions on the bus.

We drove out of Athens seeing more of the city. There are 4 areas in the economy: agriculture, industry, sea, and tourism. Agriculture is diminishing due to the common market rules. Olive oil is still important and is the best grade in Europe.

Our drive took us throughout countryside. We passed many light industries and farmland. It was much greener as we got further North. We followed along the twisting coast much of the way. The trees were still small and many pines. Still there was rocky soil but now weeds etc., on the ground. Closer to the coast it was mostly rocks and dirt.

Yannis explained what we were passing and then played soft Greek music.

One interesting thing we saw were skeleton houses. They are concrete and have no walls or insides. People buy these and then finish them how they want.

We stopped for a break and I had coffee. I like the robust coffee they serve here. As we continued we saw marble quarries, sheep, and small mines. One place we saw a prospector with pick and donkey. It was a very pleasant countryside with mountains rising up behind the cities. Looked like a nice place to live.

We stopped for lunch along the way. I got some Greek coffee and lamb. Then we continued past some fishing boats and then more inland. Lots of olive trees. The mountains are further away and rounder.

We had been rising into the mountains and then started back down through a pretty ravine. We made a short stop at the bottom and then continued on. We got down by the sea. There were many beautiful summer homes as we drove along the coast. On the other side rose Mount Olympus, the legendary home of the gods. Mt. Olympus is a broad rounded mountain rising some 2,900+ meters from the flat coastal area.

We stopped at Berea next. Paul went here and preached from the steps of the synagogue. The three steps are now part of a shrine. The rest of the synagogue has been destroyed. It was interesting to see the steps and know that Paul stood on them so many years ago.

The town itself was quaint with very narrow streets and the ever-present balconies. There are lots of olive trees outside of town.

The drive to Thessaloniki went quickly. Electra Palace Hotel is right in the center, Aristotle Square. Traffic was horrendous. There was a problem just getting the bus unloaded. We did make it and got our room key. They have an interesting system here. The key unlocks the room then you have to put a knob on the key holder into a hole in the wall in order to get electricity in the room.

Our luggage was delivered to the room and we rested a while. We fell asleep and woke up just in time for supper. I was groggy from falling asleep.

Supper at the hotel was good but way too much. I didn't finish and still felt full. Joe, Twila, Norma, Linda, and I walked around town after supper. It was packed wall to wall with people, cars, and motor scooters. The many sidewalk cafes were full. We walked down to The White Tower built in the 1500s. The city was walled but now only the tower remains. Then we came back along the waterfront side. Norma and Twila got some sweets at a bakery. Linda and I went back to the room.

Travel by bus to Thessalonika. in northern Greece. 550 km from Athens Traveled on the National Road that connects Athens to Thessalonika.

Sites en route to Thessalonika included:

Thermopylea -- site where Greeks fought the Persians in a narrow valley between the mountains and the sea. Persians were victorious and marched on to Athens but were subsequently defeated in a sea battle at Salamis near Athens. The name Thermopylae. derives from the warm water that bubbles from the rock in the area.

Mount Olympus — highest mountain in Greece, approx. 9.000 feet. Legendary home of the gods.

Traveled through the regions of Attica (Athens) and Thessaly to Macedonia.

Verea (Berea) -- here we saw the ancient steps (bema) where Paul preached at the synagogue of Verea. At this site we had our second devotions of the trip and reflected on how it was that these people at the beginning of a new millennium were inventing the Christian church.

Thessalonika, named for the step sister of Alexander the Great, is the 2^nd largest city of Greece and the capital city of the region of Macedonia.

Monday October 11, 1999

Thessoniki: Philipi Kavala (Neopolis)

We were up and down to breakfast at the hotel. We were one of the last to get there. Tomorrow we need to get up before the wake up call. We boarded the bus for our adventure of the day.

Basilica St. Demetrius built around 4-5th century. Built along the lines of Roman administrative building (basil=kingly). At one time it was a mosque but restored to Christian. Inside it was lovely. Some part date back to the 5th century. We went to the crypt downstairs. That was very interesting. Small chambers in a labyrinth. Before the Basilica was built this was the Roman baths and administration buildings. The crypts are the bathes. The layout of the administration building looked good for a church and was used; a central high area with parallel sides with a lower ceiling. A number of artifacts were displayed. There is also a holy display of the remains of St. Demitrius.

We drove up narrow twisty streets up the hill into the old city. We saw the ramparts, the old wall for the city. Originally they reached all the way to the White Tower. We had beautiful views of the city.

As we left the city, Yannis gave us the history of the region. It has changed hands a number of times. However the Greek culture, language, and religion survived. Today Greece it very predominately Christian, Greek Orthodox mainly. A Moslem presence is almost non-existent.

As we traveled we are in the northern part. There are broad fields and the ever-present mountains. We passed several lakes. When asked about fish it was explained that the sea is so close that lake fishing is not popular.

We saw a number of shepherds and their flocks. We passed through an area that was much more green and rocky mountains, maybe hills. They were very rocky. We must have been coming down through a ravine. It flattened out when we were through with mountain as a backdrop and the sea in the front. There are villages with summer homes.

We stopped to see the Lion of Antiphonies, a lion statue dating to the 4th century BC. WE also started to see almond trees along with olive trees in orchards. Between the mountains was a broad plain with farms and agriculture.

We stopped at the place where Lydia was baptized by Paul. It was her entire family and tradition says it was the origin of infant baptism.. Linda led a little service to remember your baptism. This was a beautiful site with a babbling brook overhung with trees.

From there we went to an archeological site in Philippi. The Via Egnasia, an ancient Roman road went by the Agora. The Agora (marketplace) was surely where Paul went. We saw the vema where Paul and Silas were beaten and the jail they were put in. Across the road above was the ruins of a Basilica, one of three in the area. They believed in building them big and impressive.

From there we walked to a Roman Theater ruins. They are still working on it. Recently they uncovered a 13th century Byzantine road.

The town of Kavala was our next stop. In the Bible it is called Neopolis. This was the town where Paul landed. At this point we are following his footsteps backward. We ate lunch here and then walked around.

We walked up into the old part. Steep twisty narrow streets wind their way up the hill intermingling with the old fortification. We had some spectacular views.

We went back to where we ate lunch and boarded the bus. We went back to Thessaloniki along the coast. The trip back was very pretty. We wound along the coast seeing little villages, resort areas, and fishermen. Over the water islands were visible. It was neat how they extended all along, each with a haze that got lighter in color as they were further away.

We got back to our hotel and relaxed before dinner. We took a walk around town before supper. Supper was wonderful again.

After supper some of us walked around ending with sweets. I didn't have any. We sat around watching people.

We began the day with a visit to St. Demetri Church (Basilica Demetrios) This ancient church is named for Demetrios, Patron Saint of Thessalonika.

Who was Demetrios? He was a Roman official (approx. 300 AD) who was arrested at a Christian meeting. He refused to deny his Christian faith and was imprisoned in what is now the church’s crypt and originally a Roman bath. People would visit Demetrios in prison and seek his blessing. In a famous incident he gave his blessing to Nestor in his fight against a gladiator. Nestor prevailed and Demetri was martyred for his faith. In a side chapel one can see the cask with the remains of Demetri.

St. Demetrios Church was first built in the 4 century AD over the Roman baths. It contains early mosaics from the 4^th century. In one of the mosaics Demetri can be seen giving a blessing to the children. During the Ottoman period it functioned as a mosque. It is an excellent example of Byzantine architecture with large stones surrounded by thin bricks.

Basilica — the term derives from the spice ‘basil’ and meant ‘pertaining to the king’ because of its sweet aroma. A basilica was a Roman administrative building. Later Christians adopted the architectural form of the basilica for their churches. A basilica is characterized by a main nave and side isles.

Narthex — derives from a splint for a broken bone. An unbaptized person had to remain in the narthex.

Byzantine -- derives from Vyzas who in the 7111 century AD was the founder of the city of Byzantium (Constantinople or Istanbul). In 330 AD the Roman Emperor, Constantine transferred the capital of the empire from Rome to Byzantium and renamed the city. Constantinople. Thus a Greek city became the capital of the Roman empire. The period known at the Byzantine era is from 330 until 1453 when the Turks defeated the Greeks. In 396 the emperor Theodosius split the empire into two: the eastern empire (capital at Constantinople) and the western empire (capital at Rome). The eastern empire was Greek. Latin was forgotten and the church of the East developed a special emphasis on church art or icon painting.

Lion of Aniphipolis — 4^th century BC Stopped briefly en route to Philippi.

Traveled through the Plains of Philippi, the site in 42 AD of the battle between the Roman generals Brutus & Cassius vs. Octavius and Mark Anthony. The latter were victorious.

River of Lydia. Devotion at the traditional site, a very rural site, where Paul baptized Lydia the first European convert to Christianity and the basis for infant baptism.

Philippi — founded in 356 BC by Philip II whose tomb was discovered there in 1976.

At Philippi we saw the bema (steps or podium) where Paul preached to the Philippians as well as the prison cell where he and Silas were held. This is one of the largest archeological sites in the Macedonian region of Greece and includes a large theater. The Greeks always built their theaters into the side of a hill whereas Roman theaters were built on a flat plain. In Paul’s time. Philippi had 150,000 inhabitants including many foreigners as well as Greeks. Philippi is built on two levels: lower and upper. Unfortunately the two levels are divided by a busy highway with the bema and Agora on one side and the prison and theater, etc. on the other. Devotions were held here also.

Kavalla -- A small seaport town where Paul arrived in Europe. From here he walked with Silas to Philippi. We visited Kavalla briefly for lunch before driving back to Thessalonika.

Tuesday October 12, 1999

Kavala: Monasteries of Meteora

We put our bags out and went to breakfast. Then it was off for today's adventure.

Our first stop was St. Sophia. This was a beautiful Greek Orthodox Church. It was the layout of the first domed churches. This is different from the early Christian churches we saw yesterday.

I did some greeting with Drango on the street. The reactions are quite different here. While in the late evening people laugh and enjoy themselves. During the day a smiling face is a rarity. Still there was a good reaction and laughs from some, mostly younger but some older. The desk people in the hotel say they had never heard of ventriloquists.

The Greek countryside is very beautiful. We drove by Mount Olympus and the 13th Frankish fortress from the 13th century.

Our arrival at Meteora was really something. The mountains go straight up like rounded towers. It is a geological oddity. Long time ago this was under water. Layers of silt and rocks were laid down and eroded into the fantastic shapes. Early monks established monasteries on the tops and sides. Monks used a basket on a rope with a hand wench to come and go. Now a road leads up to the top but some monasteries have many steps to get there. Most were built in the 6th century. Originally there were 21 but now only 6 survive. The ruins of the others can still be seen.

We ate lunch in Kalambaka at the foot of Meteora. After we ate we sat in the plaza, A bunch of teen schoolgirls came up to talk to Drango. Later some boys did too. It was quite a scene enjoyed by many.

After lunch we headed up Meteora. This was one of the most fantastic places I've ever been. Some, including Linda, were bothered by the narrow twisting roads with no guardrails and straight down cliffs. It did make you feel like praying. There were beautiful vistas between the rock pinnacles. We stopped several places and then went to the Monastery of Varlaam.

We had a long climb up stairs but the view was breathtaking. It was like looking down from a plane. We saw the church. It was very tiny and the walls are painted in icon style. Every square inch was covered. Although small it had a dome. The Narthex also had a dome and was bigger than the church itself.

We went through the museum and then the where the assent to the monastery was done. Now driven by a motor and using steel cable, it is still used for supplies.

We went back down and visited an Icon store. They showed us how they make reproductions in the Byzantine style. The staff loved Drango and we had a lot of fun. We bought some icons and a small Greek urn.

We stayed at the Divani Hotel in Kalambaka. After checking in re relaxed until supper. Some have wonderful views from their balconies. Unfortunately we are on the wrong side so we sat by the pool. This was very nice and relaxing. Today has been one of the best so far. Although Paul wasn't here, his ministry of starting the church in Greece made it possible for these monasteries.

We had an excellent dinner and took a short walk afterward to get some souvenirs.

We began the day with a visit to this small but historically significant church in Thessalonika. This church is especially rich in Byzantine church architecture. The dome is similar to that of St. Sophia in Constantinople. Rich mosaics. Gold chandelier in the form a dragon with a candle coming out of the head. Chairs with the double headed eagle, a symbol of the Byzantine period. One eagle faces west and the other faces east.

Next we headed out of Macedonia, across the Plain of Thessaly into Central Greece to the small town of Kalambaka in order to visit the monasteries at Meteora.

Meteora — same root as meteor, i.e., fallen from the sky

Here the visitor finds one of the world’s most unusual geological phenomena. On an otherwise flat plain there emerges a huge rock forest with rock formations 900 to 1 700 feet high. The rocks are an aggregate of earth, sand, pebbles and clay that have been compacted and deposited here. The rocks are spectacularly varied in their shapes and coloring. One theory is that this area was once an inland sea.

Approximately 1,000 years ago, in the 10 century, ascetic monks began to come to this unusual area in order to escape from civilization and its corrupting riches. Initially they lived in caves on the sides of the rocky formations and subsequently they founded monastic communities. Most of the monasteries were built in the 14 century. At its peak there were 10,000 monks at Meteora. Today only seven monasteries remain open with approximately 150 monks total. In the old days monks and their supplies were delivered to the monasteries in baskets on ropes that dropped hundreds of feet.

Monk — root is ‘mon’ as in ‘mono’ or ‘one.’ Monasticism was born in Egypt. The rules were 1/3 work, 1/3 prayer, 1/3 rest. Food consisted of bread, olives, and wine.

As our bus made the winding climb up we saw the Chapel of St. George where students hang banners if they’ successfully make the climb to the chapel.

From our bus windows we could see the Monasteries of St. Nicholas, Roussanous (a nunnery) and St. Stephanos. Our bus stopped briefly for a devotional period based on the theme of the power of prayer.

Verlaam Monastery

We visited this monastery first built in the ₁₄ch century and subsequently enlarged in the ₁₆th century. There are 12 monks here now. The church is famous for its wood panel paintings. The church itself is representative of the Athonite architectural style (from Mt. Athos). In this style, the church narthex is often larger than the main church. Here the narthex has its own dome. At the top of the dome is a picture of Christ. At each corner is pictured one of the four evangelists. In one of these we see Luke painting a picture of the Virgin Mary. In the tradition of the Orthodox Church, Luke’s portrait of Mary was the very first icon. Tradition says that Luke painted 70 icons and that only 3 remain.

Guide’s recommended reading: Philip Sherrard, The Sacred in Life and Art. 1 990.

Wednesday October 13, 1999

Athens: Delphi

We had breakfast in the hotel and then boarded the bus.

We traveled on the way back toward Athens. It alternated between planes with farming and mountains with great views. We went through central Greece and the town of Lamia. We passed a large Gypsy camp. It was a very beautiful drive.

We visited Delphi. This was not a city state but a special sacred place. As we approached we could see a sea of olive trees. There are millions of olive trees down there.

We had a wonderful lunch at a restaurant celled the Chalet. It was right on the edge of a cliff with a magnificent view of the valley clear to the Gulf of Corinth. A Greek village climbed the hill beside us

Delphi was not too far. The new town is quaint with the narrow winding streets. Just beyond we reached the archeological complex of the Temple of Apollo. We first went through the museum and then up to the Sanctuary. The setting here is spectacular. The mountain goes straight up behind the temple and theater. The Temple of Apollo was up the mountain and the theater higher yet up the mountain. In front is a wonderful view of the valley and mountains.

We started back to Athens. At one stop I found a marionette that I had to have. I'll have to work on the strings and manipulator when we get home.

After another good supper, lamb this time, we went back to the room.

Today we traveled to Delphi located in the Parnassus Mountains. Near Delphi we traversed a valley with three million olive trees (Valley of Amphisa). Our guide, John, prepared us for our visit to Delphi with some remarks on the bus as we approached the shrine.

Delphi was a sanctuary consisting of temples and athletic facilities. It addressed the mind body and soul. It was dedicated to Apollo and was the home of the Apythian Games (after Apollo). These games occurred a month after the Olympic Games. The sanctuary remained active for 1,000 years between 700 BC and 300 AD. Delphi is famous for the Oracle where men went to seek answers from the gods. At the Oracle the priestess sat on a tripod near a place where vapors (sulfur fumes) came out of the earth.

Apollo emphasized compromise. His philosophy was history's first alternative to the "eye for an eye" approach to resolving issues. Apollo symbolized respect for life. "Moderation in all things," and ‘Know thyself."

Greeks believed that Delphi was the "navel of the world."

Before beginning our hike around Delphi, we had lunch at a superb restaurant named Chalet Restaurant.

Our visit to Delphi began at the Museum of Delphi.

• Archaic statues (700 BC) — influenced by Egyptian art. Greeks, however, portrayed males nude but they draped the female figure. Egyptian style hair. "Archaic smile"
• 1939—discovery of 2 small statues of Apollo and Artemis made of ivory and gold. Friezes showing Greeks and Trojans fighting as well as gods and giants fighting. Exquisite, details (Late Archaic Period)
• Classical Period (500 BC) — muscles shown on statuary. Athletes always shown with a dog and a child. Beautiful statue of girls dancing on acanthus leaves (This piece influenced Debussy to compose "Dancers of Delphi")

The masterpiece of this museum is the bronze statue of 5th century BC Charioteer. It was discovered at the end of the 19^th century. It is a superb example of the "severe period" of Classical art. He is shown at the conclusion of the race while he is still sweating. Greek statues such as this were perfect even in details that the public could not see, i.e. that only the gods could see. It was ‘agaInia’ — ‘to please.’ for god to be pleased . This is the Greek word for statue.’ Statues such as the Charioteer were made as votive offerings to the gods.

From the museum we continued to the sanctuary itself. Only priests could live in the sanctuary. There could be no deaths nor births in the sanctuary. Either would corrupt the sanctuary.

Visiting the sanctuary of Delphi involved a rigorous climb since it was built into the side of a mountain.

Temple of Apollo — built in the ₄t11 cent. BC The Oracle ‘vas inside this temple The sacrifice of a lamb was made before entering it. The altar was always outside of the temple. Temples such as this one were built to house a statue of the god which the temple honored.

Other aspects of the site.

• Treasure House of the Athenians — undergoing a restoration.
• Polygonal Wall —built in an anti-seismetic way. Included the names of 800 slaves to be freed because of the work they had done..
• Theater for 5.000.

There is nowhere in Greece that one can visit that provides a more complete picture of Greek culture and religious philosophy that the Apostle Paul opposed. But there is a further Pauline connection. Inscriptions found at Delphi help to date Paul's visit as described in Acts. The inscriptions concern information about the Romans Claudius and Galia.

Our guide’s recommended reading, Marguerite Yourcenar, Memories of Hadrian

From Delphi we returned in the late afternoon to Athens. En route we passed the Hill of Philopapas or Hill of the Muses.

776 BC - start of the Olympic Games. Held every four years in honor of Zeus.

Passed a park in Athens where Plato established his school, The Academy was named after Academus a Greek hero.

Thursday October 14, 1999

Athens: Corinth

After breakfast we headed to Corinth. We did some shopping on the way.

Paul spent 18 months here. We explored the ruins and the Museum. Some things dated back to 4500BC, mostly small tools. There was a beautiful Sphinx, smaller than the one we saw recently. We saw the vema and the Synagogue where certainly Paul had walked during his 18 months here. The ruins seemed more ruined here than some other places we have been.

As we left Corinth we passed the canal that allows boats to cross without going all the way around. We also stopped for lunch and more shopping. Then it was back to Athens via the National Highway.

We stopped for a break and gave Yannis and George our thanks and tips. Traffic was horrendous on the way through Athens. We got to the hotel and went to the room.

In a little while we walked to a park. Even walking is tough. There are no parking meters or even parking lines. People park wherever they can, even double parked on sidewalks. Motor cycles and scooters are everywhere, darting in and out of traffic.

The park was an oasis in the midst of bedlam. We wound up the trails and found a place to sit. It is pretty here but graffiti is everywhere. It kind of spoils the park. A cat decided he liked us and was very friendly while we were sitting. He had followed us from where we first spotted him to where we sat. We were afraid he would follow us back into traffic so on a signal we both got up and walked briskly avoiding eye contact with him. We meandered back to the hotel just enjoying the back streets in Athens.

Back at the room we relaxed until time to go to the Cruise meeting. There the representative briefed us on the cruise and what we would be doing tomorrow. He gave us our tickets and luggage tags.

We had supper and the said goodbye to the three that wouldn't be taking the tour. Linda did some window shopping in the hotel lobby. Then we went to the room and packed for the cruise.

We were able to see the Island of Salamina and the area where the navel battle of Salamis was fought in which the Greeks defeated the Persians. Our guide discussed Themistocles and the Greek ships called triremes.

We passed Megara which was the home of Vizias who founded the city of Byzantium. (See Day Three notes)

Ancient Corinth Inhabited as early as the Neolithic period. It became a very wealthy city. 700 BC Ruled by Periander. 600 BC Archaic period Temple of Apollo built 126 BC destroyed by the Romans 44 BC Julius Caesar built a new city here. It is the remains of this city that we see today. 59 A.D. Paul preached on the steps (bema) of the synagogue. We held devotions here also. "The very iniquity of Corinth was the opportunity for Christ." The bema is in the agora (marketplace). Paul spent approximately 18 months in Corinth. It was here that he wrote his first epistle to the Thessalonians.

There is a small museum at Corinth containing Neolithic pieces as well as examples of the Geometric Period that preceded the Archaic Period. There are also mosaics from Roman homes in Corinth including a shepherd boy playing a flute.

Today we had lunch near the Corinth Canal which was built in 1896. The Canal traverses the small isthmus connecting the Peloponnesus (home of the Spartans) to Attica and the rest of mainland Greece. Here we said farewell to our tour guide and driver and to those of our party who were not participating in the three-day cruise extension of this tour.

Friday October 15, 1999

MS Triton: Mykonos

We were up with our bags out and went to breakfast. A bus took us to the Triton, Royal Olympic Cruises' ship for our tour on Greek Islands. Embarkation went pretty well and soon we were under way. I used Drango and he became an instant celebrity on the ship.

We went to the orientation meeting and then to a Greek Dancing class. That was fun although I don't think I should quit my day job!

We arrived at the island of Mykonos. We docked out of town and had a shuttle to take us to and from town. Mykonos was a most delightful town. It was just what you picture when you think of Greek Islands; hilly with beautiful blue water, white buildings with rounded edges and blue trim, very narrow twisty streets of cobblestones, some only a few feet wide and some with steps, and many shops.

There were a number of windmills. We were able to go in one. On the top of a hill there was a line of five of them. At the water's edge there were numerous cafes. The views from the hills were wonderful, like a storybook.

Drango quite a following of local children and other tourists. Everyone loved him! At one point, going down a narrow stepped street, a bunch of local kids had fun with him. He did the Dragon ChaCha. As we left we could hear them still doing it.

As night fell the shops came alive in the narrow streets. They were like a labyrinth. I bought a Greek shirt and Linda a tee shirt. We started to get worried about finding our way back to the bus to get to the ship. We did find it though and got back to the Triton.

We freshened up and then went to the lounge and then to dinner. Dinner was excellent. We were tired and tomorrow will start early so we went back to our cabin and bed.

Saturday October 16, 1999

MS Triton: Rhodes

We were up early and ate breakfast on the deck. Then we got ready to get off. When we were called we toured the city of Rhodes. We saw the place where the Colossus of Rhodes stood. 'It was a 90' statue of Apollo that stood straddling the harbor. We also saw a Byzantine church.

We went to the walled city built by the Knights of St. John. We went through many of the rooms and our guide explained what we saw.

Then we toured the city stopping at a pottery shop where they were making pottery. They had a beautiful work. Drango met many of the craftsmen.

We went to the Acropolis of Rhodes on the highest point. They were interesting ruins and are not being restored right now. They hope in the future.

We came back to the ship then. After lunch on deck we went into the walled city. We just walked around where ever the spirit moved us. Drango made many new friends. Some passengers from other cruise ships are even recognizing him.

He waved at a little girl in a house. She just kind of started at him and we moved on. In a couple of minutes she and some friends caught up with us. They had fun with Drango.

Another time a gal in her 20s came by. Drango greeted her and she came back and indicated we should follow her. She introduced us to an old lady living in the neighborhood. She loved Drango. We got to see inside her house. The gal it turned out had a boyfriend that used to live in Indianapolis and she had been there.

We found the old Synagogue. It served Shepardic Jews but during WWII many were killed in Nazi concentration camps. The little old lady that tends the place is an Auswitz survivor and I could see the number tattooed on her arm. There are now only 35 Jews on Rhodes but she very well maintains the Synagogue.

We were tired so we went back to the ship. I relaxed on deck with other EO people while Linda took a short nap. She joined us for afternoon tea. Later we went back to the room to relax and get ready for dinner.

I dressed in my new Greek shirt and then Drango and I went on deck while Linda finished dressing. We met in the dining room for an excellent dinner.

After dinner we went to the main lounge. I used Drango for a while. They had a band and Drango really felt the music. Then just before the show he got tired and I put him away. They did a number involving the audience and I sorely wanted him out, but, it would not have been professional.

The show was an excellent program of Greek dances. We very much enjoyed it. Afterward we walked out on the deck briefly and then retired to our cabin.

Sunday October 17, 1999

MS Triton: Patmos, Ephesus

We were up and eating breakfast early. This would be a busy day with two port calls and tours. It was raining when we got to Patmos but stopped for the tour.

We were combined with other groups and with other ships in the crowds were very large. Our bus was small and hard to get around in but it got to the places first so we didn't have to wait.

Our first stop was Patmos. This is a relatively poor island. We went by bus to the grotto where John wrote the Book of Revelations. There were many steps down, which meant many steps back up. There was a service going on as we walked through the grotto and tiny church. There would be a steady stream of sightseers going through.

Next we went to the Monastery of St. John. It was way up the hill and also had many steps. It was very interesting and afforded us good views of Patmos and the harbor with our ship.

Then it was back to the ship and lunch in the dining room. We arrived at the next island Ephessos. This was in Turkey and was a different experience. We didn't share the bus but it was very small. The ruins of Ephesus were among the best we have seen. They are ruins but so much is left that you get a feel for the town. In Biblical times it was a seaport but now silt has set in inland many miles. We saw the library, which was one of the largest in the world.

We also saw the theaters, Latrine, many well-preserved arches, sewer & water systems, and more.

On the way out we went through the merchant stalls. They are unbelievably aggressive. Almost all are men and the loved Drango and gathered around him in groups to talk to him.

The bus dropped us off near the ship at a rug shop. They explained how they are made and showed us wonderful examples. Several in our group bought some. They were good bargains.

They served Apple Tea to us. I did the drinking bit with Drango and one of the workers was totally fascinated. He came over and sat by me to see how I made Drango work. I did the drinking thing again and he practically fell out of his chair to see how he drank.

Many more merchants tried to sell us things as we walked back to the ship. Again Drango proved irresistible to the Turkish men. Even a police car stopped to talk to Drango.

Finally we were back on board

We changed for dinner and picked up our passports. We had turned them in when we boarded. Linda and I sat in the lounge on the top deck until time to eat. Supper was great fun. Then we went up to the little lounge on the top deck. We enjoyed out Baley's. We came back down for the final show. It was excellent; singing, dancing, and a magician they had some great routines with birds.

Then we went back to the room and packed. We put our luggage out.

Monday October 18, 1999

Athens

We got up early and ate breakfast in the dining room. Then we went up to the main lounge to wait for disembarkation.

We were ready to go when EO was called. It was painless to disembark. Our luggage was waiting and carts too. We took the luggage to the bus then went through rush hour traffic to the hotel. Our rooms were ready so we settled in.

A bunch of us took the hotel shuttle to the center of Athens. Most went their own way. Twila and Norma went with us to the changing of the guard. We had just missed it so we walked some in the National Gardens until the next changing. Very formal, it was quite interesting. The guards wore uniforms that had a skirt and big pompoms on their shoes.

Then we had lunch at a little Greek cafe. Then we just wandered enjoying the sights and sounds of Athens, stopping in some of the stores or just window-shopping. We saw some wonderful marionettes but the store was closed. Probably good as I would have been sorely tempted.

We ended up back at McDonald's where the shuttle is to pick us up. We had frappes at McDonald's. They were acceptable. The shuttle was on time.

We relaxed until dinnertime and then went down a little early. The gals window-shopped and Tom and I sat in the bar. Then we went downstairs for another good supper.

After supper we went back to the room, packed, and went to bed.

Tuesday October 19, 1999

We got up at 4:00 to leave. A cold breakfast was served at the hotel. It was mediocre. The croissant rolls were tough!

It was raining but not too bad as we left for the airport. We checked in. The airport was not exactly luxury but adequate except it was hot. It was still raining a little as we took the shuttle to the plane. They still have the boarding steps buy not cover. The Swissair flight got off on time.

We had a while to kill in Zurich and then were on our way to JFK. Both legs were on Swissair. It is a nice airline.

We got in to JFK Airport late in the afternoon and went right through customs. Getting out of JFK was a nightmare but we didn't have to worry about it. It was 7:00 when we got to Tom and Pats. None of us were very stable on our feet when we got out of the van.